DeTomaso Mailing List: July 97, Message #38

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From: MikeLDrew@aol.com Subject: Fwd: Re: Hot starting troubles solved (and what I learned at the autocross) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 22:58:15 -0400 (EDT)
More stuff that never made it out the first time... --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: Re: Hot starting troubles solved (and what I learned at the autocross) Date: 97-07-01 18:43:09 EDT From: MikeLDrew To: DeTomaso@wgate.com Capt Mike Drew 150 Westgate Dr. San Francisco, CA 94127 Home: (415) 334-7860 E-mail: MikeLDrew@aol.com Andy wrote: >Other things I discovered at the autox: - the braided lines for the Wilwood brakes (from PPC) will rub on the rims at full lock and make loud horrible noises if not routed very carefully (not yet completely solved) >>>Imagine the noise RUBBER lines would make under the same circumstances-NONE! So you'd blissfully continue, until finally you'd worn right through the line, at which point the noises would be spectacular as you romped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor, and you went blasting into the side of a Semi-truck or something! - the (significantly) wider front brake rotors in the PPC kit leave about a millimeter clearance between the rotor and the lower ball joint. The brake shield must fit into this narrow space (my mechanic spent some time just making it fit). >>>A millimeter is as good as a mile...actually, I think most people simply leave the stock brake shield off when fitting these types of brakes. - my right front 245/45 tire is rubbing the inner fenderwell at full lock and kissing the outer fender lip on bumps. >>>The former is to be expected, the latter somewhat less so-have you rolled your fenderwells? If so, then you've done about all you can do without yanking on the metal and moving the fender slightly. - my left rear 335/35 tire is rubbing the inner fenderwell at the top under load. Incidentally this is the opposite corner to the front rubbing. hmm... >>>How many shims are you running on that side versus the other? More? Shortened (as opposed to lengthened) upper a-arms, and fewer shims might be what you need. - I found rust in an unlikely (I think) location. In the left rear corner behind the inner fender well and halfway up - right in the middle of that large sort of triangular mostly flat area directly above the muffler. Isn't that a strange area for rust? It's not yet showing much, but you can feel it when you knock... (five different experienced Pantera people missed this when they inspected the car for rust - I found it by chance because the flat black paint there is beginning to blister) >>>When my car was stripped (#3960, somewhat close to yours), factory-original OEM rust was found in the same place, light surface rust covering the entire panel. Evidently the panel was rusted before the car was even painted. This is apparently NOT all that uncommon... - I have the chipping problem from the rear deck lid at the right rear corner of the body but not the left. I forget... what can be done to minimize this? >>>There are several approaches. The stock deck lid catch (on the lid itself) for this era Pantera is a simple metal bar that engages the catch on the body. This provided no side-to-side support. The vendors sell the updated version (which appeared on L-models I believe), consisting of a bar with 'ears' that fit over each side of the catch, and thus prevent side-to-side movement. As a temporary fix, lots of people glue 1x1 inch pieces of bicycle inner-tube (or suitable replacement) on the inside corners of the body, out of sight. Check out Jim Firanzi's car at Pocono-his decklid moved enough to smash a fairly large (relatively speaking) dent in the side, the result of popping out a pretty significant chunk of bondo which at one time resided in this corner. - the steering is too slow and we don't have sufficient caster for a semi-tight autocross course - you'll tear up your arms (and hands) dialing in lock in both directions repeatedly >>>Mad Dog, this is for you. If you've got lots of caster, and are in a corner, if you let go of the wheel, it will self-center. With insufficient caster, you have to work to turn the wheel into a corner, then work to turn it back straight again. ==============================================================================

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