DeTomaso Mailing List: July 97, Message #66
![[previous topic]](../images/prev_topic.gif)
![[previous]](../images/prev.gif)
![[index]](../images/index.gif)
![[next topic]](../images/next_topic.gif)
Home Boy, Thanks Bro' for the straight answer on caster benefits. Mad Dog Mike Drew@aol.com wrote: > > More stuff that never made it out the first time... > --------------------- > Forwarded message: > Subj: Re: Hot starting troubles solved (and what I learned at the > autocross) > Date: 97-07-01 18:43:09 EDT > From: MikeLDrew > To: DeTomaso@wgate.com > > Capt Mike Drew > 150 Westgate Dr. > San Francisco, CA 94127 > > Home: (415) 334-7860 > > E-mail: MikeLDrew@aol.com > > Andy wrote: > > >Other things I discovered at the autox: > > - the braided lines for the Wilwood brakes (from PPC) will rub on > the rims at full lock and make loud horrible noises if not > routed very carefully (not yet completely solved) > > >>>Imagine the noise RUBBER lines would make under the same > circumstances-NONE! So you'd blissfully continue, until finally you'd worn > right through the line, at which point the noises would be spectacular as you > romped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor, and you went blasting > into the side of a Semi-truck or something! > > - the (significantly) wider front brake rotors in the PPC kit leave > about a millimeter clearance between the rotor and the lower > ball joint. The brake shield must fit into this narrow > space (my mechanic spent some time just making it fit). > > >>>A millimeter is as good as a mile...actually, I think most people simply > leave the stock brake shield off when fitting these types of brakes. > > - my right front 245/45 tire is rubbing the inner fenderwell at full > lock and kissing the outer fender lip on bumps. > > >>>The former is to be expected, the latter somewhat less so-have you rolled > your fenderwells? If so, then you've done about all you can do without > yanking on the metal and moving the fender slightly. > > - my left rear 335/35 tire is rubbing the inner fenderwell at the > top under load. Incidentally this is the opposite corner to > the front rubbing. hmm... > > >>>How many shims are you running on that side versus the other? More? > Shortened (as opposed to lengthened) upper a-arms, and fewer shims might be > what you need. > > - I found rust in an unlikely (I think) location. In the left rear > corner behind the inner fender well and halfway up - right > in the middle of that large sort of triangular mostly flat > area directly above the muffler. Isn't that a strange area > for rust? It's not yet showing much, but you can feel it > when you knock... (five different experienced Pantera people > missed this when they inspected the car for rust - I found > it by chance because the flat black paint there is beginning > to blister) > > >>>When my car was stripped (#3960, somewhat close to yours), > factory-original OEM rust was found in the same place, light surface rust > covering the entire panel. Evidently the panel was rusted before the car was > even painted. This is apparently NOT all that uncommon... > > - I have the chipping problem from the rear deck lid at the right > rear corner of the body but not the left. I forget... what > can be done to minimize this? > > >>>There are several approaches. The stock deck lid catch (on the lid > itself) for this era Pantera is a simple metal bar that engages the catch on > the body. This provided no side-to-side support. The vendors sell the > updated version (which appeared on L-models I believe), consisting of a bar > with 'ears' that fit over each side of the catch, and thus prevent > side-to-side movement. As a temporary fix, lots of people glue 1x1 inch > pieces of bicycle inner-tube (or suitable replacement) on the inside corners > of the body, out of sight. Check out Jim Firanzi's car at Pocono-his decklid > moved enough to smash a fairly large (relatively speaking) dent in the side, > the result of popping out a pretty significant chunk of bondo which at one > time resided in this corner. > > - the steering is too slow and we don't have sufficient caster for a > semi-tight autocross course - you'll tear up your arms (and > hands) dialing in lock in both directions repeatedly > > >>>Mad Dog, this is for you. If you've got lots of caster, and are in a > corner, if you let go of the wheel, it will self-center. With insufficient > caster, you have to work to turn the wheel into a corner, then work to turn > it back straight again. ==============================================================================