DeTomaso Mailing List: December 97, Message #103
     



From: 	Dennis Antenucci <itbewild@gte.net>

Subject: Re: Best 351C?

Date: 	Mon, 8 Dec 1997 21:51:55 +0000



Reposting...didn't go the first time,

> 

> YO People,

> Shane Ingot wrote;

> SNIP

> > It's a little quiet out there Mad Dog...Please post something mate!

>  Okay, now we're talkin Shane'! See Curt...Nanananana on you!

 

 Pulled a old Super Ford article by NHRA engine builder Kip Martin outta

 POCA from a couple years ago that some of you Newbe's may not of seen

 before. I'll summarize...

 

> GOOD 351C

> For street, use Aussy 2-V heads. they give better overall torque from

> idle up to 6000rpm. A 351C with Aussie 2V heads, solid lifters and a

> Performer intake can make 400 ft/lbs at 4500 rpm and 400 hp at 6000 rpm.

> 

> BETTER 351C

> For higher RPM usage with morre compression, uuse more cam and 4V closed

> chamber heads with port plates until you start breaking stuff. The plates

> pick up the velocity without killing any flow, and help broaden the

> torque range. the block will split a cylinder before you quit making

> power...another reminder to "sonic test" these thin blocks is always

> money well spent.

> 

> BEST 351C NEVER BUILT

> This is an easy one: the 400M engine with 4V closed chamber heads. All

> the parts exist to build this engine, manifold spacers that allow the use

> of of 351C manifolds, camshafts and off the shelf racing pistons because

> the compression is the same. The big stroke wakes up the big ports, and

> one of the few racer's I know that has raced this combination was using

> 12:1 TRW pistons.

> 

> BEST 351C*

> Heavily modified steel 4V closed chamber heads that Glidden, Roush and

> others ran using relocated and filled intake ports and raised exhaust

> ports. "Dyno Don" Nicholson showed us his notebooks which revealed flow

> bench figures superior on the old, heavily-massaged all steel Cleveland

> heads when compared to the modern canted-valve SVO parts!!!

> A long time 351C racer in Texas (Must Be Kirby!) showed me the most

> reliable cheap engine combo I know of: offset grind the crank down to a

> 3.400-inch stroke, bore the block .020 inch over and use a 5.85-inch

> aftermarket aluminuum rod, along with the Manley hollowdome pistons they

> used to build for the 351C. These were off-the-shelf parts at the time,

> and with the shorter stroke and longer than stock rod, the lightweight

> components would allow the rotating assembly to be internal balanced with

> very little tungsten heavy metal. I have seen one experienced racer and

> engine builder that has run this combination over 9000 on a regular

> basis.

> 

> Okay, DaveW., JackD, and others...start your engines. Everyone has some

> variation AND an opinion of the above that works for you. Share it with

> the unenlightened.

> Do it or die!

> 

> Mad Dog, IRA