DeTomaso Mailing List: April 98, Message #301

Kirby,

Option 2 is my preference.  I always toss the cork and use a bead of silicone on the block & manifold, let it sit for a minute or two, then bolt everything down.  I also use 5/16 studs in the vertical holes to guide the manifold in place.  BTW I use the Fel-pro print-o-seal gasket with copper-kote on the paper (head) side to be sure it all seals & the gaskets don't shift.

Keith

PS.  I'll be doing this again as my wonderful head guy didn't quite get the #3 exhaust valve guide right and the valve stuck open on the dyno, "breaking in" my #3 piston, which now smiles at me.

>>> Kirby Schrader <schrader@sugar-land.spc.slb.com> 04/06/98 03:17AM >>>

O great and marvelous engine type gurus....

Which is better?

Option #1: 'Stock' style intake manifold gasket consisting of metal tray
   and two end pieces only.

Option #2: After market type with two end pieces and seperate intake to
  head gaskets (four pieces all together. No tray.


Intake is a dual plane Motorsports (Ford).

I tried option 2 over the weekend and obviously am a complete klutz at
getting two little cork end pieces to seal correctly. Ended up buying
another kit and installing #1 which had the two end pieces nicely done with
little tits that fit into the holes in the block, plus pieces that overhang
the ridge and keep it in place.

Does the tray help keep the intake cooler since the oil can't splash on it?

Or is there something else missing in the story here?

As you may deduce, I'm getting close to getting this sucker together...

Thanks,

Kirby

Kirby Schrader                  Compuserve: kschrader@compuserve.com 
                                            kschrader@slb.com 
'71 Pantera #1661 (engine rebuild almost done)
'90 Thunderbird 35th anniversary special
'78 Longchamp GTS #3001   The wife's...
 http://mwd.sugar-land.anadrill.slb.com:65080/