DeTomaso Mailing List: March 99, Message #180

Lost my notes on who to call for proper deck lid shocks.

I think Mike Drew was working with a vendor to produce
the proper deck lid shocks for the Pantera.

My Pantera has the GTS wing and I am tired of being
conked on the head while doing service.

Anyone remember who the vendor of these shocks are ?

Ever grateful,

Chris...

BLK 71'
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Mccall <Charlie.Mccall@haworthinc.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list <detomaso@realbig.com>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: overheating


>Just to emphasis a point Richard made, the non-functional radiators might
be a cause, as could fans running backward, but I would check timing as
well. When my distributor pin partially sheared last summer and the timing
was way off as a result, it took mere minutes before it was spitting fluid
all over the place. If it were a faulty radiator, I would expect it to take
longer to overheat. It'll be a while before a normally functioning motor
will get hot enough to open the thermostat anyway, if it literally is at 260
degrees in 5 minutes, I would suspect the motor is the culprit, not the
cooling system.
>
>Which raises another point, there is no mention of whether it displays
symptoms of overheating. If the temp gauge is pinned to the right but
coolant doesn't come sputtering out, get all over the hot motor, and steam
in a spectacular fashion, then I would tend not to believe the gauge. My car
had never overheated in the first year I had it, I didn't know what people
meant by "pissing cooling all over the place". Once you see it, it is pretty
obvious your car is overheating :- )
>
>Where is the sending unit located? If the sending unit is in the overflow
tank and the coolant level is low, you'll be reading the temperature of
steam in no time, which will also make you think the engine is hot even if
it isn't.
>
>So I guess a couple issues - first of all, is it really overheating? This
can be checked with a meat thermometer as desribed by Richard, and would be
accompanied by symptoms such as spitting coolant out the overflow tube. If
it is, is the problem caused by a faulty radiator/fan setup or timing that
is way off?
>
>You would be able to tell if additional fans would help (doesn't sound like
it though) by telling us if it overheats at highway speeds. If it still
overheats at 50-60mph, then all the fans in the world won't help.
>
>Don't give up!!
>
>Charlie McCall
>1972 Pre-L
>#3847
>Still in France, not Pantera-less anymore!
>
>>>> Richard Barkley <rbarkley@earthlink.net> 03/04/99 09:40AM >>>
>"s evans" <bigred62@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Richard,
>>My '73 L has an overheating problem.  I got it last summer, and really
>>haven't driven it yet.  It looks pretty sitting there, but that's about
>>all it's good for at present.  It is totally stock.  I let it idle for
>>about 5 minutes and it is pegged all the way over.  It came with 3
>>fans!!!-one in front of the radiator, and two on the other side of the
>>radiator. I don't know how many more fans it would take to get this cat
>>to run cool.  There is a shroud.  I don't know if they are working
>>against each other or what.  At this point, I am willing to try anything
>>to get this car to run cool so I could finally drive it.  Where can I
>>purchase the 5 core Modine unit and the single Flex-a-lite "Black Magic"
>>fan that you mentioned?  I am not a mechanic so try to speak in terms
>>that a dumb blond can understand.  Thanks for your help and advice.
>>Samantha
>
>Samantha,
>  It sounds like you have more than enough fan power. Just make sure they
>all come on and are turning the right direction. The rear fans can be
>easily checked by putting your hand behind them and feeling the wind. Check
>the front fan by looking at it while you have someone else turn it off. It
>should be turning so the front edge of the blade is leading (goes into the
>air first) the back edge. But I doubt this is the problem.
>  Most likely problem is a plugged core or a detached baffle (which was my
>problem). There is a baffle that separates the inlet half of the header
>tank on the end of the radiator core from the outlet. This makes the water
>go across 1/2 and back the other 1/2 of the core. This is called a 2 pass
>radiator. If the baffle leaks, some (possibly most if the core is also
>blocked) of the water just goes from in to out without getting cooled.
>  My local radiator shop got the Modine core and installed in my old tanks.
>I think the core itself was around $250, but I had them split the tank and
>extend the in/out tubes, so it was $425 total without any installation
>labor (I just took them the radiator). Anyway, if you have a trusted
>radiator shop, this might be the way to go, but also have them do the work.
>Otherwise, you might be better off buying a new radiator from one of the
>Pantera vendors. Call them for prices and suggestions. I think you can get
>something for around $500. Hall has a super radiator for $569 (Phoenix 6)
>which is much more than you need. Others may have less radical ones for
>somewhat less. It's possible you just need things rodded out and/or a
>baffle fixed, but if it's at all questionable, I'd go with a new core or
>radiator. I wouldn't recommend the "Black Magic" fan unless you have
>mechanical skills as fitting it is not easy. You can get them from Summit
>Racing or Jegs for about $190.
>  There is a possibility it's not your radiator. Other things to check: 1)
>The thermostat is it working and is it the right one for the Cleveland (see
>3 below). The reference charts aren't always right (I got a wrong one
>before I knew what I was doing). The right one has a little collar that
>closes off the bypass when it opens. It's easy to recognize once you've
>seen one, but hard to describe. 2) Your gage is working right. This is
>easy, just stick a cooking thermometer (a candy thermometer works great) in
>the open tank (where you fill the radiator) and let the engine warm up (but
>not get too hot). The two should agree within 5 deg or so. 3) Check the
>temperature on the return tube from the radiator. You can do this by hand
>but be careful not to burn yourself. My guess is that it will either be
>really hot (means little cooling being done and so a leaking baffle and
>possibly a plugged radiator) or quite cool (means not much flow through the
>radiator - either the radiator is plugged but baffle probably OK, or the
>thermostat is not opening. 4) Your idle RPM is too high, or your timing is
>not set right.
>  I hope this helps. Also check the archives for overheating, radiator, and
>things like that. There has been much discussion on this subject. Also,
>feel free to call me anytime - I'll be down working on my car all day!
>
>Also, if you don't mind, I'd like to post your question and my answer to
>the list. Or you could post your question first. That way all will benifit,
>you might find someone near you to help, and you'll get some additional
>opinions.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>Richard Barkley
>
>To Ski or not to Ski, that is the question!
>
>Richard Barkley
>(310) 373-6695 (home), 813-2432 (work)
>E-mail: richard.barkley@trw.com (work), rbarkley@earthlink.net (home)
>Mammoth Condo 2BR+loft/3Bath - Horizons 4 #186 (760) 934-6758
>Condo web address: http://home.earthlink.net/~rbarkley
>
>
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