DeTomaso Mailing List: March 99, Message #184

Sorry this includes non-Pantera cars, but this is the same Dyno we
will have in April, and includes some interesting software
..not edited for content.

CM



> Hello,
> 
>   The Region of Doom (Northern Ca/NV) Impala SS club held a Dyno Day this
> weekend on March 6th.    The event was held at Superior Dyno Service in
> Fairfield CA (home of the "Jelly Belly" Jellybean!), and was an excellent
> opportunity to make dyno runs at a discount!
> 
>   The owner of Superior Dyno Service is Keith (whose last name is
> DEFINITELY
> slipping my mind right now, DOH!), who is a true gearhead!  Keith is VERY
> knowledgable on the Dynojet dyno, and knows how to operate it RIGHT
> (which,
> to be honest, quite a few people who own dynos have NO CLUE at all on how
> to
> properly operate them!).   Put it this way : if your dyno operator is
> telling you to have the car (automatic) shift at WOT on the dyno, RUN away
> because they DON'T have a freaking clue!  GOOD dyno operation puts hardly
> any wear at all on the car.   BAD dyno operation can RUIN your motor (or
> worse!).
> 
>   BTW, Walker Bower : Keith mentioned that he met you at a driving school
> near Las Vegas last year (with your C5 Vette).    Small world sometimes
> :^).
> 
>   At any rate, I have taken the "runs" from today, and put them in a zip
> file on the ROD webserver.   First, you'll need the Dynojet Run viewer
> (aka
> PepView).   It is a DOS program, but runs fine under Win95 and WinNT.
> Get
> it from :
> 
>    http://www.dynojet.com/automotive/pepview/viewer.htm
> 
>   You want the "Dynojet Run Viewer, English Version."   Or, if you REALLY
> wanna confuse yourself (or you are Heinz :^), get the Metric version :^).
> After you download it, unzip it into a temporary directory and then run
> the
> "install.bat" file, which will install the run viewer in
> 
>            C:\Pepview\
> 
>   One the viewer is installed, you'll need to then download the run files
> from today.   They are on the ROD webserver at :
> 
> http://www.regionofdoom.com/Dyno_Runs/Doom_Dyno_Day_03061999.zip
> 
>   Unzip this file in C:\Pepview\ , and make sure it preserves the
> directory
> structure (this is VERY important, or the run viewer won't work!).   The
> zip
> file will have a directory structure like :
> 
>    chevy\impalass\ed\eds96.001
> 
> Look at the file with your zip program, a good one for Windows is Winzip
> at
> 
>   http://www.winzip.com/
> 
> if you don't have one already.   Thus, you want that file to end up as
> (for
> example) :
> 
>   C:\pepview\chevy\impalass\ed\eds96.001
> 
> and so on for the rest of the files.   Like I said, just unzip them into
> C:\Pepview\ AND tell it to use folder names when unzipping, and it'll all
> work.
> 
>   There is an HTML file on the Dynojet website that gives help in running
> the viewer at :
> 
>   http://www.dynojet.com/automotive/pepview/viewtrouble.htm
> 
>   Once the run files are installed, simply run C:\pepview\pepview.exe .
> It
> is a DOS program, driven by menus.    Usually, the "standard" plot you'd
> wanna look at is Power and Torque (left and right axes) versus Engine RPM
> (the "X" axis).
> 
>   Ok (whew :^).   Now you've done that, I'll go into my runs.    I am in
> sort of a unique position here : I have dynoed my car before, but on a
> DIFFERENT Dynojet dyno at MTI in Houston.    Also, I have NOT done any
> power
> mods since the last time I dynoed in Houston (a little over a year ago,
> and
> about 12K miles ago, I am now at 50K miles) other than the Team SS Cold
> Air
> Box.   Since the hood is open and the car isn't moving during a dyno run,
> the CAB obviously doesn't make a difference here (even though it DOES on
> the
> street!).
> 
>   I originally wasn't gonna dyno today, but the chance came up and I
> decided
> to anyways.   Glad I did, as it was definitely informative!
> 
>   My "power mods" are Team SS pipe and cold air box (with K&N cone
> filter),
> 1LE elbow, 160 T-stat, TB coolant bypass, Hypertech PP+, the infamous
> "Muffler Delete" exhaust mod, and 275/40 tires (which changes the gearing
> from the stock 3.08 to approx 3.25 or so).
> 
>   A year ago, at MTI, my car made (adjusted for standard conditions) 244
> HP
> and 302 ft-lbs of torque.   So, one neat thing would be to try and compare
> dynos!   Results are : these Dynojets are pretty dang consistent!   Today
> I
> did three runs, and made (adjusted for standard conditions) 243, 246, and
> 247 RWHP (and 302, 306, and 306 RWTQ).  I'd say it is pretty consistent!
> Using the "standard" 17% loss for an automatic car with stock torque
> converter, my best numbers from today work out to
> 292 Flywheel HP and 358 Flywheel Ft-lbs of Torque.
> 
>   BTW, the air was DEFINITELY good today.   High 50s (low 60s by my runs)
> and low humidity out.   The NON-adjusted numbers today were about 10 HP
> above the above numbers!
> 
>   Also when I did my runs today, I recorded my runs with Hypertech
> PowerScan.    Wanted to look at several interesting parameters.   The run
> files are in a text file at :
> 
> http://www.regionofdoom.com/Dyno_Runs/Ed_Runnion_DDD0399_PowerScan.txt
> 
> Some interesting things of note from that file :
> 
>   1. My stock-cammed 96 (with the basic intake/exhaust mods) pulls a peak
> of
> around 220 gms/sec or so of air.
> 
>   2. I am seeing NO knock retard!   This is DEFINITELY good, and is
> probably
> a strong contributor to why my dyno power curves are VERY consistent and
> smooth.   This also tells me, that in MY case, the LT4 spark module would
> NOT help me (unless it ALSO adjusts timing, anyone know for sure?).
> 
>   3. I AM a little curious about my non-WOT O2 values (especially the ones
> where the car is "cruising" at 60 MPH in 3rd on the dyno before I nail
> it).
> Maybe time for new O2 sensors?    However, the WOT values look about right
> and rock-steady.
> 
>   4. The car made SLIGHTLY more power on each subsequent run.   Also of
> note
> is that the car ran SLIGHTLY leaner on each subsequent run (if the O2
> sensors above can be believed).   I still have the stock fuel pressure
> regulator, injectors, and pump.
> 
>   5. I knew this before, but the stock cam is pretty much done by 5000 RPM
> or slightly over.   This explains in part why folks with the HPP+ tend to
> see slightly better 1/4 times if they DON'T shift at redline, but rather
> shift slightly lower.
> 
> So, lots of good info here!   Thanks again to Keith at Superior Dyno, as
> well as Jim Bridges and Marc McGovern for all of their hard WORK at making
> this event happen!
> 
> Ed Runnion                  Sunnyvale CA
> mailto:Ed_Runnion@RegionOfDoom.com
> 96 BBB.....yet more dyno time :^).
> 
>