DeTomaso Mailing List: March 99, Message #245

Eric, (and Mike),
  Ya, I forgot to mention the importance of bleeding. I've also heard that
a HP water pump can help, but that may depend on how restrictive your
radiator is. According to my calculations, doubling the water flow rate on
my system would yield about 10% more cooling on a hot day at idle. That's
ignoring any increace in effeciency due to the increased turbulance (and
thus better heat transfer) due to the higher velocity. It may be more
important at full power. The way to tell if more flow will help is to
measure the radiator in/out temps. The cooling is proportional to the
difference between the average of the in/out temp and the air temp. The
closer they (in/out) are together, the less benefit there will be from more
water flow.

  Anyway, sounds like your system is working great. And I think everyone's
can and should. We just need to spread the word!


>dear owner,
>
>I had the same problem last year. I was instructed to purchase a "flow kooler"
>waterpump with anticavitaion plate (about 80 dollars from summitt racing),
>replace thermostate with heavy duty 160-180 degree type, ....jack the front of
>the car up about 30 degrees and bleed both radiator valves while the car was
>up in the air. Also needed to fill both overflow tanks as the thermostat
>opened up. After a closed  air free system was obtained ,  i ran the car at
>120mph down a backstreet several times. temperature never exceeded 200 and
>idle was 195 on hot texas day. I really believe the flow kooler water pump
>makes the difference as does getting rid of all air bubbles. Stock radiator
>ought to be fine otherwise with adequate pusher or puller fans.
>
>
>eric  73 restored Red


Sincerely,
Richard Barkley

To Ski or not to Ski, that is the question!

Richard Barkley
(310) 373-6695 (home), 813-2432 (work)
E-mail: richard.barkley@trw.com (work), rbarkley@earthlink.net (home)
Mammoth Condo 2BR+loft/3Bath - Horizons 4 #186 (760) 934-6758
Condo web address: http://home.earthlink.net/~rbarkley