DeTomaso Mailing List: July 99, Message #256

Thanks Mike. I appreciate all of that. Lots of corrections. Hey, I'm still
learnin'. Between the Apollo (oops, Dzus fasteners, the negative
camber,etc), I'll get it right someday. Cal. 

> ----------
> From: 	MikeLDrew@aol.com[SMTP:MikeLDrew@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	MikeLDrew@aol.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, July 07, 1999 11:36 PM
> To: 	Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: 	Re:  Continuing restoration saga
> 
> Cal wrote:
> 
> >The biggest "problem"
> is removing the brake system and refreshing the proportioning valve and
> some of the stainless hardline so it looks decent. 
> 
> >>>Since you're working in that neighborhood, follow Jack DeRyke's advice
> and 
> just JUNK the stock proportioning valve!  You can keep the shuttle valve 
> thingy if you want, but the prop valve has GOTTA go!  Less effort to
> re-plumb 
> than to recondition it anyway...:>)
> 
> >Continuing on, I took a look from at the back of the cat. It looks like
> the tops of the tires may be ever so slightly pointing inside more than
> the bottoms. It needs that camber adjusting cross brace. That's also
> going to come on sometime during this resto. I'll probably follow on
> with a brace kit sometime later in the future.
> 
> >>>Uh, Cal?  Can you say CAMBER?  The Pantera is SUPPOSED to have 1/2
> degree 
> of negative camber in the rear--this is exactly what you're describing.  
> Before you spend money fixing a problem you may not have, get the car on
> an 
> alignment rack and see where you're at.  Camber is adjusted in the rear by
> 
> shims between the mounting yokes for the lower a-arm, and the chassis.  If
> 
> you have too much negative camber, you can remove shims.  ONLY if you have
> NO 
> shims and still have too much camber, must you investigate other
> alternatives.
> 
> You do NOT want to attempt to correct an excess negative camber problem by
> 
> putting an adjustable brace in the back and cranking the hell out of
> it--this 
> merely over-stresses the body.  Not that these things aren't a good
> idea--I 
> intend to fit one shortly myself.  But the goal is simply to keep the rear
> 
> end rigid, NOT to use it as a band-aid.
> 
> If you in fact have excess negative camber and can't shim it out, then you
> 
> need adjustable upper control arms.  But I suspect you don't need
> ANYTHING.
> 
> > I heard someone was using a Ferrari horn during the last
> PCNC tech session. I might have to try that. How much does a 308 horn
> cost anyway?
> 
> >>>The Grand Prix horns (Italian FIAMM air horns re-packaged for USA
> market) 
> came from Kragen for $25.  That was me that installed them and I LOVE
> them.  
> Don't forget you get a 10% military discount at Kragens!  If the checker
> says 
> you don't, ARGUE because it's there!
> 
> Last weekend I discovered the SAME horns available at Harbor Freight for
> only 
> $19.95 (different package), and a similar package with same compresser but
> 
> METAL instead of plastic horns for $28.
> 
> I purchased a second set of these horns for a project involving a train 
> whistle (long story) that unfortunately fizzled out.  So last week I
> mounted 
> 'em in the Scirocco of Doom! :>)  I've been beeping my brains out all
> week! 
> :>)
> 
> Rick's car already came with similar horns (different make though--I
> forget?) 
> so he couldn't use 'em!
> 
> >Oh yeah, Mike, you were right:
> those Apollo (or is it Hercules?) fasterner holes 
> 
> >>>That's Dzus (pronounced "Dzus") fasteners...
> 
> Mike
>