DeTomaso Mailing List: October 99, Message #96

[previous topic]           [index] [next] [next topic]
From: Matt Wells <mattwell@aa.net>
Subject:Re: front wheel bearings
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 03:51:32 -0400




JDeRyke@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 8/24/99 6:04:07 PM, mattwell@aa.net writes:
> 
> << Is it (steering bushing) a standard size I can get at NAPA?Or is it
> another rare "vendor"item? >>
> 
> Cheap vendor item, 
$15USD through Pantera Parts Connection...

or if you have access to a lathe, they're pretty basic to
> make your own. Forget NAPA, though. To install: remove the pass. side boot.
> Remove the rt tie-rod end from the steering arm, by removing the nut, then
> pounding smartly on the side of the steering arm where the tapered tierod
> stud goes thru. Do not hit the stud, just the side of the arm. The shock wave
> will break the taper loose & the tierod end will fall out.

I found no need to hammer anything Jack.I just unscrewed the little ball
joint assembly from the rack and dropped it out of the way.Is this
wrong?

 Then peel back the
> boot and untighten the coupling that attaches the steering rod to the end of
> the rack gear. This is difficult; most guys use a pipe wrench 

Sears-pipe wrench in tool dept. $16.99 - no scars amazingly if done with
care.
First fashion an expendable jewelers slotted screwdriver to pry up the
biggest keeper washer I've ever seen.A little indent in the sleeve
washer to hold it in place(think of it as your own insurance)into the
keeper slotway is what you'll find.It has to be eased up(as to allow you
to hammer it gracefully back) to allow the biggest keeper washer I've
ever seen to be unscrewed +removed.Then it all comes apart after finding
the ball and spring that popped out but you remembered what order they
came apart in relative sequence to everything else fortunally.Just keep
track of order of removal,and reverse it to re-install.

"on the
> coupling, since no one owns the proper pin-spanner. Once the steering rod and
> coupling are off, the new bushing can simply be driven into the end of the
> rack; the OEM bushing is simply driven further inside (plenty of room)."

WHHHOOOAAA!!!!
No way can the old bushing/metal sleeve be driven farther inboard.At
least on my rack.A 1972 pre-L stock.It is stopped by a machined keeper
just inboard of the famous original steering bushing.It is rarely seen
but consist of a plastic collar encased within a thin stainless sleeve
kept in place by a washer set inboard against the machined part of the
outer casing itself.I happen to know this because my prefered piece of
pipe for driving in the new bronze bushing was made of cheap soft
metal.As a result as I attempted to drive in the old bushing,per
instruction,I met resistance and the end of the soft metal pipe I was
using formed and wedged itself in between the plastic bushing and the
stainless outer sleeve.
So I think I'm screwed because now my tool and bushing are hopelesly
jammed into a tight spot.Ok,hammer time.Tap tap out comes my custom tool
with the whole damn bushing thing hanging off the end like a hungry
stupid sturgeon.I soon realize this is a rare sight and savor my good
fortune.I have sucked the un-suckable!A Pantera pioneer!ewwww
I can now insert the $15 bronze bushing in exactly the same spot as the
stock one and not have to drill a new keeper hole.
The magic tool can be obtained for only $49.95 Visa,Check,or Money order
to:
PanteraOwnersCashAcquired
1234 Jack It Up Ave.
Los lobos,Californication(RHCP) ICU812
(not a real address)
" Note

> the 3 slots around the bushing mount in the rack body- this's how oil
> circulates into & out of the boots. Reassembly is the reverse, except you may
> need to play with the coupling adjustment a little. It adjusts for 'firmness'
> against the ball-ended steering rod. It's possible to tighten the coupling
> nice & tight to the rack gear and still have slop in the joint. This is
> difficult to describe, but not to do."

It just feels loose at speed and under turning.Basically most of the
time.
Now the right caliper is not releasing and pulling so I get to learn
about them now!
By the time I'm done replacing eveerrryyyttthhhinnngg what will it feel
like?
What is the best a like new front end will compare to?Is it vague and
confidence inspiring like a Fiat or scary precise like a Dino?
Please insert your own analogy here -



> If this job goes well, I'll send a newsletter back issue that describes how
> to add grease fittings to all the ball joints & steering arm tie rods,
> without disassembly. Collectively, these ball joints etc are over $1000 to
> replace w/ all new parts....
> Cheers- J DeRyke

It did and if you could,I would appreciate the article.Thanks Jack.


My question is:
To replace all critical components to make the steering right,can all
this be done with a PNCC tech session in one day?
Is it feasible that if all parts were on hand and I brought my car and a
six pack of Seattle Starbucks latte mochas freshly made,delivered ,and
fresh(hopefully) and ready to be warmed up in the microwave for
consuption by people I have never met,only conversed with and ready to
rumble with and learn? I could drive back with a "new"frontend and a
better understanding of all unknown.    
Where can I attend the most Northernly tech session and when?

BTW,the special tool is just an end of the cheap pipe section which Fred
Meyers sold as a fence post holder but happened to measure 2and1/8in.I
measured everthing in the store and this fence post thingy fit.Bought
it($3.49),hacked it off and I had a tool.For once cheap metal helped
out.I doubt any future fixes will be this easy so I will be happy to
expand on this one if anyone needs more detail of my limited experience.
Thanks and enjoy every day,(:])
Matt


[previous topic]           [index] [next] [next topic]