DeTomaso Mailing List: November 99, Message #301

Had a guy bring his car over once with the same problem. The fix was to
replace a fuse that looked perfectly good but was causing a resistance. His
was a later 74 model and the gauges were on the same circuit and did not
work either. I would check the load side of all the fuses with a test light.
A digital meter will sometimes show voltage when there is no load and fool
you into thinking that power is there. Does anything else electrical not
work? It is normal to need the switch turned on to power this circuit unlike
most cars. Don't know why but it works so I have never changed it on mine.

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Mary Taphorn [SMTP:MaryTaphorn@email.msn.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, November 11, 1999 1:21 PM
	To:	Multiple recipients of list
	Subject:	Brake Lights

	Hey Gang

	Could use your insight.  Recently learned that my brake lights are
not
	functioning.  Performed the following tests:

	Tested the stop light switch on the junction box under the master
cylinder -
	It works

	Ran a jumper wire from the battery to the lead off the stop light
switch
	that runs to the taillights. - Rear brake lights lighted.  No
problem there.

	I then connected a voltmeter to the hot lead that runs into the stop
light
	switch.  - Of course no voltage.

	When the ignition switch is turned to the second click - I get ~ 5
volts
	Turn the key and start the car - I get no volts.

	Seems the problem is in the ignition interlock switch.

	Is this repairable?  Or is a new ignition switch required?  Any
other
	diagnoses?

	Thanks
	John T