DeTomaso Mailing List: November 99, Message #365
| From: | BRJ12Go@aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lights... bad connections? |
| Date: | Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:12:22 -0500 |
John, I read with interest your posts and commend you on your diligence to
troubleshoot the problem. You said that you had no power indicated to the
Stop Lamp Switch.... Therein lies the problem, and it's easy to trace.
I view the Brake Light circuit as a dedicated circuit not dependent upon the
Starter Interlock or the Override. The Brake Light circuit is supplied power
from fuse #12, which in turn is supplied power from the "ON" position of the
Ignition switch, which in turn is supplied by the battery (also being the
charging circuit) via the ammeter. Fuse #12 also supplies power to the Turn
Indicator Switch, the Courtesy Lights, the Radiator Fan relays, the Seat Belt
and Brake Warning lamps and the Tachometer. So if these are operable, I
would conclude that the "ON" circuit of the Ignition switch is good.
I don't see the Washer, Wiper or Brake circuits utilizing the Starter
Interlock Override.... Quite the opposite.... The power lead to the Stop Lamp
Switch also enables the Override. It, in conjunction with the ground
borrowed from the Washer Motor, activate the Override coil which in turn
completes the cranking circuit that the Starter Interlock can sever. I don't
look to the Interlock or the Override for causes of the Brake Light failure.
You inferred that the cranking circuit works, so the Starter Interlock has
not severed the Cranking circuit.
I view the Washer Motor circuit as being a dedicated circuit totally removed
from the Starter Interlock and Override. On the diagram, the Wiper and
Washer green wire circuit is supplied power from the heavy gauge violet wire
that originates at fuse #8. (on my car the green wire circuit is supplied
directly from fuse #9). Tracing up the power supply trail, fuses #7, 8 and 9
are supplied from the battery (also being the charging circuit) via the
ammeter. So if the Wiper circuit is, and the Washer Motor circuit is not
operative that would lead me to suspect the that the major grounding terminal
up under the dash may not be secure.
I suggest that you secure all wire terminators on the suspected circuits and
tighten up the major grounding terminal as well as the connections to the
battery and the ammeter.
I assume the Starter Interlock is a safeguard to insure that driver and
passenger have their seat belts fastened.
Good Luck,
Brent, ..... considering swapping in a VW wiring harness.
<< Still no go on the brake lights. I changed all the plastic fuses today to
the Busse fusses that Jack champions. This really comes as no surprise as
the wiring diagram (which I may be misreading) does not show its voltage
coming through the fuse box. Additionally, my windshield washer( not wiper)
motor is not functioning.
According to the wiring diagram both utilize the Emergency Starter Interlock
Override which may be the culprit. My car is an early '73 with relays on
drivers left. Is anyone familiar with this Override and where I might find
it on my car? >>