DeTomaso Mailing List: December 99, Message #36

I catch on after awhile...2 buckets req'd for coolant drain.
Drained my rad for the 1st time for rad removal and install of dual
Flex-a-lite puller fan. New S/S tubes and Gates hoses from ProFormance
are on the way(my visa is burning up!)
Good guys Don and Bob,give em a call-
1-562-691-2526 
First I drove up on 12" ramps.Ok blocked up.
Opened the drain.
After watching the stuff spurt out like a woman doing a #1 standing
up,dribbling onto the structure,no offense ladies,I can understand why
Panteras rust out in the lower front valance.Then I saw another trickle
on the left side,grabbed a lil'cooler that was within grabbin distance
to catch that.Does Hall sell a drain trough?
I spose it goes like this,first the curbs scrape off any kind of
paint,flatten the tow hook(mine happen to be  forward)and exposes bare
metal,then the old fluid from the annual fluid change results in wetting
with a potential corrosive like anti-freeze.It dribbles into the seam
between frame and body panel and sits there,and conducts electrolysis
while we sleep.
No wonder.Mines just a bit corroded around the edges probably where
curbs have struck leaving the disco parking lot ala' early 80's.Limited
to sheet metal edges not frame thank goodness.This will be addressed
later.

But I spose my question 1st is what have folks done about being able to
drain without dribbling all over the front vallance( as in repositioning
the drain valve.)
I'll bet the $550 replaceement rads have a repositioned drain,but I
forgot to ask when I ordered the parts.
2nd-Does any one run pure water and a wetting agent (like racers)vs
water/antifreeze?


That's all for now.Thanks and enjoy every minute per hour,
Matt

PS-at least the WTO riots have made the freeways safe again.No cops
anywhere.