), I literally > ran > > out into the garage to double check the clearances between that 351M and > the > > 351C. Starting from the bottom of both oil pans (both are the same width > since > > you can use the same oil pans) up to their respective engine mounts...no > change > > in basic location. I just have to fabricate the upper half to have the 400 > rest > > on the 351C pads (doesn't look like a problem). The block is indeed wider > from > > the back buuuut, their seems to be enough clearance for the shift linkage > of the > > ZF. The width that I took into consideration was the wide end of the > 429/460 > > bellhousing pattern. It is wider. And, as a result of the taller deck > height, it > > is wider atop. Going back down toward the engine mounts again, I retracted > the > > shift linkage travel. Seems to me that even with the wider cast for the > 439/460 > > bellhousing, there is a space for the linkage to run past that > bellhousing. So, > > no change here as far as the swap is concerned. However, you did bring up > a good > > point on sizing up so I'll do more measurements but I believe it should > still > > work! Cal. #2428r. > > > > JDeRyke@aol.com wrote: > > > > > The 351M uses a big-block Ford bolt pattern like the 429/460/502. The > early > > > M-blocks had a foundry problem in the tappet galley that caused > cracking. The > > > main bearings are 3" dia like the 351W, so are rpm-limited due to oil > > > cavitation. The rods have big-block-sized wristpins and a small bore so > > > piston availability is poor. I'd suggest Fords crate motor 502 if you > want > > > acceleration. To go faster with a big block than a 351C will carry you, > > > you'll need to re-gear the ZF (figure $3000 plus labor). After you get a > > > bellhousing ginned up, good luck with the gearshift linkage.... all big > > > blocks including the M-series are several inches wider than a Cleveland. > > > RE: First drive #2772
From: Craig Cline <Craig.Cline@trw.com>
Subject:RE: First drive #2772
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:24:33 -0500

The shifter sounds like it is mis-aligned.  If the trunion is OK (see below)
then you probably just need to re-align the shifter.  The 1st-3rd
mis-alignment is usually caused by the shifter splines being out of line
(just 1-2 off will do it).  

It is easiest to fix at the transmission.  Don't remember exactly how I did
mine, but it goes something like this: disconnect at trans, manually place
shifter in 1st and then place trans in 1st (easy to move manually at the
trans with a simple pair of pliers - just don't damage the splines), then
reconnect the splines (you may have to move the shifter away from the 1st
gear stop to get it to fit).  Anyway that's the general idea.

If there is more than a few thousandths slop in the shift shaft at the
trunion then it probably needs to be replaced.  Either Hall's fancy trunion
or the factory replacement work well, just make sure it includes a zerk
grease fitting so it can be re-lubed without the stupid little grease needle
the factory recommended.  

I don't remember the prices but I chose the stock replacement because I
thought it would keep out the dirt better when properly greased (the Hall
unRE: First drive #2772




From:	David Doddek <pantera@pobox.com>


Subject:RE: First drive #2772


Date:	Wed, 5 Jan 2000 23:35:19 -0500





What you fail to realize is that bushing inside the rubber is oil-lite
bronze which is a porus bronze that holds oil like a sponge.

Dave "still use my origional trunion on Stainless steel shaft" D

At 01:05 PM 1/5/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Craig:
>I'll have to cautiously disagree with out on that issue. I don't think the
>lubrication part will be that much of an problem. Taking apart that stock
>trunion, all it appeared to me was nothing but a rubber encased sleeve with
>the usual mounting hardware (ne: the threaded rod that affixes with two nuts
>to the frame). I didn't see how there was any lube points on the trunion.
>Simple greasing of the shaft should solve any of the galling problems that
>you mentioned. Besides, the trick is not to use the heim joint for what it
>was originally intended (at least on that "shaft fixation part"). Simply get
>"the next size up" on the sleeve (or modify it to allow slippage), lube with
>your favorite brand of axle grease, and enjoy! Cal. #2428r.
>
>> ----------
>> From: 	Craig Cline[SMTP:Craig.Cline@trw.com]
>> Reply To: 	Craig Cline
>> Sent: 	Wednesday, January 05, 2000 9:38 AM
>> To: 	Multiple recipients of list
>> Subject: 	RE: First drive #2772
>> 
>> I thought the simple heim joint sounded like a good possibility as a shift
>> shaft trunion replacement until I thought about what the trunion needs to
>> do
>> versus how a heim


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