DeTomaso Mailing List: March 2000, Message #250
| From: | MikeLDrew@aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Camber Locks |
| Date: | Wed, 8 Mar 2000 04:41:23 -0500 |
Tony wrote:
>Can someone explain the function and need for front Camber Locks?
>>>Can do easy. If you pull your front wheel and look at the interface
between the upper control arm and the ball joint, you'll see that the camber
is held mostly by wishful thinking.
There are two bolts which pass through oval holes in the a-arm, then round
holes in the ball joint. The nut is loosened, the ball joint (and thus the
spindle) is pushed inwards or outwards, then the nut is tightened and
theoretically is supposed to hold the assembly in place.
The problem is, you can put a zillion pounds of tension on that fore-aft
facing bolt, and it's still going to do a pathetic job of keeping the ball
joint from moving around when subjected to abrupt shocks (potholes, etc.)
Plus, it's a royal pain for the alignment shop to set the alignment, because
there's no precise way to move the ball joint inwards and outwards. Out
back, they can use shims which are easily quantifiable. Up front, it's a
whack with a mallet or a pull with a crowbar, then bolt it all back together
and see what you've got. Which won't last long anyway.
The Pantera Performance Center kit consists of a beautifully machined
aluminum bracket which bolts to the top of the arm, and a machined spacer
which replicates the shape of the factory alignment shims (used to adjust
caster, i.e. move the ball joint fore and aft in the opening in the upper
control arm.) This machined spacer is connected to the bracket with a
threaded rod. Use a wrench to turn the threaded rod, and the ball joint
moves inwards or outwards in a VERY precise and controlled fashion. Once
you've got it where you want it, you tighten down the lock nut on the
threaded rod, then tighten down the stock bolts/nuts (fore-aft oriented) and
that sucker ain't gonna move nowhere, nohow!
Especially considering that you're going to be tearing into your steering
rack and thus losing your current toe adjustment anyway, you owe it to
yourself to cough up the extra $80-90 or so to add this feature. If your
alignment shop charges by the hour, in all likelihood this thing will pay for
itself as soon as you get the car aligned anyway.
Mike