DeTomaso Mailing List: August 2000, Message #63

Racerman,

As I contemplate the purchase of my own parts.... here's a response to
you... have fun!!

He asked:
Here's your choices.....

1. Cylinder heads:
a) 71 "Closed Chamber" , 4V
b) Boss 351.
c) Aluminum...Yates, Blue Thunder etc.
d) Aussie 2V...ala..... "Powerheads" CNC ported.
e) Aussie 2V stock.
f) "Open Chamber" Stock

>>> Aussie 2V closed chamber.  Port match as needed. No knowledge of the
"Powerheads". Complement with stud machining for durability.  Sounds like
you want to be a bit on the edge, and the kit to convert without machining
to adjustable rockers is not recommended for competition....  Good exhaust
valves with hardened seats.  Good springs to fit rpm limit and cam
recomendations. Perfect circle teflon seals.  Rockers as you desire..
hardened pushrods, may have to stay with 5/16" depending.... should hold to
6500.

2. Block ...
Aluminum...or Steel ?
a) Stock....4 bolt , 2 bolt.
b) SVO
c) Nascar
d) Aussie

>>>> First choice would be the Aussie block simply because of the "beef"
factor. More metal is more metal....  Nascar...well... if you can find
one....and afford it!  Second choice would be a good ol' 2 bolt block,
earlier the better. With 6500 limit, it should hold up just fine. Biggest
concern here, is the cylinder wall thickness. Limit overbore and use as
thick a block as you can find with as little core shift...   No sense
spending money you don't need with the rpm limit as stated, spend it on
rods.  If ya hafta feel better, go with a stud girdle kit...

3. Crank
a) Forged, or stock cast.

>>>>Stock cast. Will spin fine to 6500.  Have seen drag racers use them to
10K albeit for a shorter run... they are plentiful....  Surface treat it
for durability?

4. Rods
a) Stock.
b) Boss 351
c) Crower
d) Eagle

>>>> Yup, you need these!  Old book has Crower "Ford Sportsman" I-beams
good to 8200rpm for about $650... There are other options... H-beams....
around the same price... probably newer players too.... If nothing else, a
good set of factory rods mag'd and shot peened with good bolts should hold
just fine too!

5. Cam
a) Roller ..or flat tappet
b) What lift...what duration.
c) valve spring rate....LBS...closed & open.

>>>> Motorsports lists two cams one hydraulic, one not....  hydraulic still
has lifts over .510" but no specs on HP and Torque....   The one I saw
preforming impressed me... specs for Windsor cam list BHP peak at 5750rpm
and Cleveland head should breath better...  Rollers? My jury is still
out.... flat tappet should do fine with little worry about the distributor
gear garp....    Dual pattern cams work better in Clevelands. (two
Motorsport ones are dual pattern)

6. Intake Manifold
a) Single Plane ...or Dual Plane.
b) Mfg.....Eldebrock, Blue Thunder, Weiand, etc.

>>>>Edelbrock Performer "RPM" or F351 (Old version?) for 2V heads. Simple
port matching.

>>>> OTHER
Oil pump- high volume. Use a good drive shaft!!! FPP?

Carb- Holley 735 to 750 vacume secondary.  Good driveability is what you
want... some sense of fuel economy... over double squirter... or not! You
may need to upgrade to a blue printed pre-flowed version too....

Distributor- Factory dual point with vacume advance is fine, trash the
points and run an electronic trigger with a good coil and wires....
shouldn't have to get real fancy... Mechanical only is a thing of the past.

Balance the rotating stuff..

Pistons- good forgings, smooth all the sharp edges off and polish the
tops... good rings, perhaps zero gap, cast iron for quick seating, less
wear on cylinders vs chrome-moly. No more than 10.5 comp. ratio.

Water pump- do the impeller modification. Correct t-stat, 180-185ish degrees.

Harmonic balancer- larger stock one should be fine. Re-do via Damper Dudes
if needed... I always wonder about the "magic ones".... never forget the
picture of the guy standing on the track with his front pulley, crank
snout, and whoopdie balancer in his hand....

That's my story and I'm sticking to it! No one elses....

Steve  :)