DeTomaso Mailing List: September 2000, Message #26

AJ,

STill fightin' my problems with the Goose, so perhaps I'm no authority....
but, here's my $.03 anyway. Ok maybe $.04.....

Your running hot thing should be expected with the new motor.  The thing is
tight, friction is high until you get some run-in time. Bore wall is
thinner...   My fresh 428 in the Wagon was the same way and eventually
settled down to just puking sometimes instead of ALL the time....   (.060"
over is real thin walls....)

The initial cold BURP thing you had happen is indeed due to air.... once
passed (HAH!) the fluid level should stabilize. Trick is to fill radiator
partially and have cap ready to slam on when it does burp!

Drain water out until it is just over the top of the fins. Fire it up and
leave the cap off so that you can see what is happening. Once the t-stat
opens, you should then see water flowing... water should expand and the
level will raise some... but you can get an idea if things are moving
properly.... ANother thing you can do, is using a candy thermometer from
the kitchen, check the temp of the water that you now see at the top of the
radiator. It should be pretty hot... or at least close to the guage.
Nevermind, you said that you have a thermocouple of sorts.... leave Shel's
kitchen stuff alone!!!

As long as your oil guage and your gas guage are registering OK, your
voltage reg should be OK on the back of the dash.  A 10 ohm resistor on the
gas sender wire to ground should give you a full tank of gas.... I don't
know what the proper resistor would be for the temp guage! Check the Ford
shop manual?????

I hate to ask, but you did put the "disc" thingy in the block, just below
the t-stat, and you have the proper Clebland t-stat. Presuming this is
proper....  remember that water pumps suck..... they don't pump..... well
sorta....   they suck FROM the radiator bottom hose and pump it into the
block front. Water moves towards the rear of the block then up thru the
rear of the block into the head, where it then moves forward and into the
front of the block (top) where it exits past the t-stat back into the
radiator. This is the loop.  (I've been doing a LOT of thinking about this,
as I prepare to merge my new Cleveland heads with my 302 Windsor style
block and SVO head gaskets.  I've got so many holes of various sizes and
data sheets with suggestions for even more.... that I feel like a range
target!!! I think I have my plan down and should limit hole drillin in my
block to a minimum...with only slight mods to the SVO gaskets.)

IF, you can get good temp readings from the t-couple in the top of the
radiator, measure resistance of the sendor, while installed in the block,
(disconnect the wire). Suspect the guage if all seems well. (Ford guages
are +5V I believe.)

With the reduced quantity of water in the system, you shouldn't boil any
over.... and can leave the cap off..... maybe. There will be enuf water in
the system for now. Add water later once this is sorted out.

Compression leak.  Been there, still fixing it.  If you have it bad, just
starting the motor for a few seconds will pressurize the system. Telltale
sign is mucho pressure in the radiator when you pop the cap.  Even run it
for a few minutes, and check it before the t-stat has opened. Should be no
pressure or very little.  You DON'T want to see gobs-o-bubbles in the water
once the t-stat is open and the water is circulating! This would go hand in
hand with the excessive pressure indications.

As for squeezing the top hose.... no big deal. There will be some pressure
there when the system is up to running temp, but not a lot. Should be firm.
 Once you let the pressure out, squeeze away.... not telling you a lot. It
should NOT be rock hard. Not good... compression leak.....  Last but not
least, a cooling system checker would be in order... goes on the cap
fitting and you "pomp eet uuup" Pressure guage should be steady...  I did
this on my car and was able to hear the water entering the cylinders once I
pulled the plugs and stuck a long rubber hose in there...

If your engine isn't feeling hot to the touch, it isn't. Back to basics
here!  Guage may have gone south is the bottom line, if all else is well.
The disc and t-stat thing is a common overheating mistake...  But you would
have to be boiling over violently and it doesn't sound like you are there
yet.... If you have an aftermarket temp guage, you may just hotwire it in
and see what it sez???  Sorta like verifying oil pressure guages.. with a
mechanical one...

Just don't fill the radiator to the top. Leave room for expansion due to
the heat of the new motor until it settles down...  I'd expect some
misbehaving, but no tantrums!

Outta here! Good luck!
S