DeTomaso Mailing List: September 2000, Message #27

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From: Asa Jay Laughton <asajay@asajay.com>
Subject:Re: Overheating ideas (non-Pantera)
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 19:53:30 -0400


At 06:05 PM 09/01/2000 -0400, Steve Liebenow wrote:
>Your running hot thing should be expected with the new motor.  The thing is
>tight, friction is high until you get some run-in time. Bore wall is
>thinner...   My fresh 428 in the Wagon was the same way and eventually
>settled down to just puking sometimes instead of ALL the time....   (.060"
>over is real thin walls....)

Noted, will take that into consideration.  Thank you

>The initial cold BURP thing you had happen is indeed due to air.... once
>passed (HAH!) the fluid level should stabilize. Trick is to fill radiator
>partially and have cap ready to slam on when it does burp!

That is next test.  Most folks who have responded mentioned this as the
first step, as it sounds more like I'm running fine and have a gauge problem.

>I hate to ask, but you did put the "disc" thingy in the block, just below
>the t-stat, and you have the proper Clebland t-stat.

For those that really don't know, this part is Paramount to the "effective"
cooling for a Cleveland engine.  Yes, in my case, both are correct.  The
disk was never removed by myself or anyone in the machining
chain-of-events.  The thermostat has the little "hat" on it as well.  In
fact, both the new and old one do.  Not quite like the originals, I'm sure
it probably won't stop complete fluid flow but it's better than nothing.

>IF, you can get good temp readings from the t-couple in the top of the
>radiator, measure resistance of the sendor, while installed in the block,
>(disconnect the wire). Suspect the guage if all seems well. (Ford guages
>are +5V I believe.)

This is where I really think I'm headed.

>Compression leak.  Been there, still fixing it.  If you have it bad, just
>starting the motor for a few seconds will pressurize the system. Telltale
>sign is mucho pressure in the radiator when you pop the cap.  Even run it
>for a few minutes, and check it before the t-stat has opened. Should be no
>pressure or very little.  You DON'T want to see gobs-o-bubbles in the water
>once the t-stat is open and the water is circulating! This would go hand in
>hand with the excessive pressure indications.

This is where I really don't want to go.  I tried to be very careful
through the entire rebuild process, checking and rechecking.  But as we all
know, things can go wrong.  I will certainly let everyone know what I find
out.

Thanks,
Asa Jay
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
Asa Jay Laughton
Mobile Network Hardware Development
[Engineering New Products]

Itron, Inc.
2818 N. Sullivan Rd.
Spokane, WA  99216
(509)891-3306			asajay.laughton@itron.com
FAX(509)891-3355
Visit our web site at http://www.itron.com



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