DeTomaso Mailing List: September 2000, Message #40

Ken,

The main problem with rust in the Pantera, as you probably know, is from
water that gets trapped in the body cavities (usually along with some
dirt). So the first order of business is to open these up and clean them
out. Mike Daily's site has some good pictures of where these areas are.
Drill holes if necessary and blow, blow, blow and brush, brush, brush
(where you can). Two areas you might consider drilling small holes and
then blowing maybe flushing out are the front edge of the hood and the
rear end of the rear deck. Water drains into these areas and can't get
out. Mine were full of rust (and acid) after the dipping.

As for things you can pour into the body (to places you can't get) be
careful! POR-15 and ZeroRust (see links below) are two candidates, but I
wouldn't use them. Why? Although they can be applied over rust, you are
supposed to brush off the loose rust first. The problem is that if you
just pour it over loose rust, you may create more problems than you
solve - rust will get started and then the paint will lift and trap more
water, causing more rust... See paragraph 1. 

So, what to do for these "can't reach" places? Not sure! One is to do
nothing except make sure there is drainage and block the possible inputs
for water and dirt where possible (and without creating new water
traps). This is what I'm doing mostly so far. Another is to use some
kind of "rust converter" perhaps followed by one of the wax or oil based
anti-rust products. My favorite converter is Rass-o'-Nil. It is water
soluble, but if it is not washed away will provide protection for a long
time. If it were followed by one of the wax or oil products it would
probably be permanent. It is quite expensive ($85/gal), but a little
goes a long way if applied directly. An ideal use for it, I think, is to
run it into the seams (doors and lids mainly). Caution: if applied thick
it takes a long (days?) time to dry unless you apply heat. If you can't
wipe it off to a thin coat, try blowing it out. One caution on the
wax/oil products. Be careful where you put it. Many years ago I did my
doors with some petroleum based stuff, and it out gassed for years:
Every time the car got hot sitting in the sun, it stunk!

Another "ACE in the hole" are various VCI (vapor corrosion inhibitor)
products. See Bullfrog link. Also, JC Whitney and others have advertised
for years and electronic rust shield (Electro Shield). Anyone have any
info on it? If you believe them, this is all we need! And it's only $99
(or so).

Some links for further exploration:

http://www.bull-frog.com/ do a search on VCI rust in google.com for lots
more info/options

http://www.zerorust.com/

http://www.por-15.com/

http://www.icpi.net/  Rass-o'-Nil manufacturer's site. They also sell direct.
http://www.rassonil.com/ a distributor for R-O-N ne Picklex20.

http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index  auto painting
discussion and lots about rust.

http://www.PanteraPlace.com/page48.htm

http://www.geocities.com/goodytommy/rust/  A serious hobbyist.
Interesting discussion. I think he missed the boat by not testing
Rass-O'-Nil. It's more than just phosphoric acid with zinc, and you
don't wash it off (his main complaint with this type of product).

http://www.tgmr.com/electroshield.htm  The home page for Electro Shield.
Internet special for $147. Their FAQ says it can be used on all cars
made after '77 and then later in any steel-bodied car w 12V negative
ground. Guess that means all cars made after '77 are steel bodied and
negative ground :).

http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=4504 JC Whitney
Electro-shield kit for $99

Remember google is your friend, and try not to be too anal!

Anyone else (except Cal :) ): lets hear about your rust proofing solutions.

Richard

KenInSoCal@aol.com wrote:
> 
> OK, you guys have scared me away from the dip!
> 
> I'm looking at a trailer today that has a 12 by 6 1/2 bed, and has carried a
> 2200 lbs Baja bug with no trouble. If I buy it, I'll build a rotisserie onto
> it. I found a guy who strips a lot of classic cars, who will strip and prime
> it for about $900. That sounds good to me. I think if I take it there on the
> rotisserie, it will be that much easier for him, so hopefully he'll do a very
> compete job. Then I'll see what I really have, and can get started on the way
> back to the road.
> 
> I want to pour some rust inhibiting product through the body as much as I
> can, to reach surfaces that aren't exposed. I know you've talked about this
> before, but can you tell me specifically what product you can pout in and let
> run through the car. I know one of these is water soluble, and I'd rather not
> use it because I assume the reason there is a problem is because water can
> get into these sections.
> 
> Ken

-- 
Sincerely,
Richard Barkley

To Ski or not to Ski, that is the question!

Richard Barkley
(310) 373-6695 (home), 813-2432 (work)
E-mail: richard.barkley@trw.com (work), rbarkley@earthlink.net (home)
Mammoth Condo 2BR+loft/3Bath - Horizons 4 #186 (760) 934-6758
Condo web address: http://home.earthlink.net/~rbarkley