DeTomaso Mailing List: January 2001, Message #49

I would agree with just about everything Mike said; although I have the
polly bushings and I like them. as for the ball joints Mike's right make
sure you need them before you spend the money there. if you do determine
that your's are shot you should give Pat Mical a call. he's just outside of
Boston so he's in your neck of the woods, and he's come up with a better
alternative to the original ball joints. Pat's ball joints are about $150.00
ea. but he has to make some modifications to the a-arms which raises the
total cost, but I think it still ends up cheaper and if you ever have any
future problems your replacing a 1/2 price ball joint...... good luck....
Gray
----- Original Message -----
From: <MikeLDrew@aol.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of list" <detomaso@realbig.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: With every turn of a nut, I found another thing to do.


>
> In a message dated 12/31/00 9:03:46, Concerts4u@aol.com writes:
>
> << Yesterday I started in on my rear bearing job and found I would like to
do
> more part out of need and well it would just look a little better if
......
>
> >>>We've all been there! :>)
>
> >Can't separate the ball joint (72 seem to differ from the manuals 73) so
I
> thought I would take off the A-Arm.
>
> >>>You just ain't doin' it right.  They're all the same, and some are a
real
> bear to take apart.
>
> There are two molded-in tabs on the sides of the a-arm right next to the
ball
> joint.  These are designed to be absoutely pounded to death with a 5 lb
> sledgehammer!  The hole in the a-arm through which the ball joint passes
is
> slightly oval, and bends to a round shape when the ball joint is pressed
in.
> But it really wants to stay oval, which is what keeps it there.  Pounding
the
> snot out of those tabs momentarily rounds the hole, allowing the ball
joint
> to pop out.
>
> I've seen it done several times and it's always amazing.  As a 98 lb
> weakling, I can beat on those things all day and nothing happens.  Then a
big
> Bo-bo-like gorilla comes over and with ONE stout whack, the ball joint is
> free. :<(
>
> >Seem they assembled the "A" arm before
> they put the springs in (bolt won't come out). this is the short version
of
> this story of course and here are my questions.
>
> >>>Liquid wrench, time, perhaps some heat, percussion, and profanity will
get
> EVERYTHING apart.
>
> Who has the best price and product on the following:
>
> >>>You will find that price and product are fairly evenly matched across
the
> board.  What is important is to find a vendor you like and can trust, and
> then establish a good relationship.
>
> >Braided Steel brake line
>
> >>>Fantastic idea.  They are cheap, at around $100 for the set I think.
>
> >All rear bushings (16 I think?) Is the "Poly" stuff the best way and does
it
> install     easy?
>
> >>>There are different schools of thought on bushing design.  I happen to
> prefer the stock-style bonded rubber bushings, even though they are
obscenely
> expensive.
>
> The primary advantages of the poly bushings are their cheap price and
simple
> installation.  Some designs utilize the outer sleeve of the stock
bushings,
> making removing those much simpler; most require the laborious process of
> removing the old ones in their entirity.
>
> Poly bushings CAN be extremely squeaky; lubricating them with dedicated
poly
> bushing lube, or NAPA anti-seize is the way to knock that down.
>
> Some feel the poly bushings are too harsh, and fail to adequately insulate
> the chassis from shocks and impacts encountered by the suspension.  I
happen
> to agree.  But most who have them seem to like them fine.
>
> >Ball joints
>
> >>>Bring money.  They cost an absolute fortune, i.e. about $300 EACH last
> time I looked.  Not available from any other cars, either, so don't bother
> wasting time at Kragen.  Be SURE you need them before spending the money
to
> replace them!  If the ball joints are okay but the boots are shot, you can
> buy boots alone for peanuts.
>
> >Shocks (don't have "Hall" kind of money)
>
> >>>What's wrong with the original shocks?  At this point, if you don't
have
> Hall money, then you are probably choking in agony over the price of the
ball
> joints.  I'd urge you to re-use your existing shocks/springs until you get
> several thousand miles on the car and determine you NEED or really want to
> replace them.
>
> >Rear sway bar, bushings, and "Pantera" name plate
>
> >>>I presume you upgrading to the "GTS" sway bar, .875" dia (or 7/8" for
you
> fractional types); this is an excellent upgrade.  And of course you'll
need
> new bushings; I'd probably go with poly bushings, although I have become
> seduced by the Spherebar poly spherical bushings from Hall Pantera, which
> seem to be much better than conventional bushings and clamps.
>
> Although, having seen and admired both the factory Group 3 and Group 4
> setups, and the effective copy by Cory Gehling of Collector's Choice, I
think
> that would probably be the superior alternative.  Only, Cory is asking
about
> $2K for two swaybars and linkage.  Spherbars look a lot better to me at
$200
> or so!
>
> >I think there will be more - but thanks for your help on this list anyway
>
> >>>There probably WILL be more, and we're glad ot help!
>
> >Back to take off the Shocks -
>
> >>>I hope you have a good reason to! :>)
>
> Mike
>
>