DeTomaso Mailing List: July 2001, Message #228

Mike could you check the manuals and see what shoes I need to wear!  I have
the manuals I am just lazy and want you to check for me!!  Could you post
them on your web site!!  

Johnny (Chucks and Vans rule)Holmes

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Dailey [mailto:mdailey@tectelsolutions.com]
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 12:10 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: RE: 2nd gear grinding


Jim,

That's a great point about the shoes.   Think about us tall guys (6' 6")
with the size 15s!

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From:	jimoco@excite.com [mailto:jimoco@excite.com]
Sent:	Monday, July 09, 2001 11:45 AM
To:	Mike Dailey; Multiple recipients of list
Subject:	Re: 2nd gear grinding


On Mon, 9 Jul 2001 09:17:00 -0400, Mike Dailey wrote:

>  Mark,
>
>  This might not be the same in your case but I often find that gear
grinding
>  is caused by the clutch not releasing fully and it makes the synchros
work
>  harder (or intermittently not work) when shifting.   On my 71 car the
clutch
>  free play adjustment is super critical and cannot be more than the .102"
>  specified or I have shifting problems.   When the free play is correct
and
>  the master and slave cylinder is working correctly it shifts fine.   The
>  master cylinder can cause some deceptive problems when its seal is not
>  working absolutely perfectly, e.g. reduced clutch release movement.
When
>  all of the clutch stuff is adjusted and working correctly I can shift
from
>  neutral directly into reverse without any problems.  This is a good test
of
>  how well the clutch is releasing.  All of this requires that the clutch
>  always be fully depressed when shifting.   I have a page on the website
with
>  some pictures showing the free play adjustment.   I've thought about
going
>  to the long throw slave but I do not need to increase the clutch pedal
force
>  more than it is now.
>
>  Mike

Mike & Mark:
I just put a long-throw in my '71. At first you do notice the extra effort -
but after driving the car a couple of times - you adjust and you don't
notice any longer. There is one thing though - and that's the kind of shoes
you're wearing do make a difference. Mike has discussed this point earlier.
You need to use the ball of your foot and make certain that you can feel
that clutch pedal go all the way to the floor. I've noticed that sometimes
I'll get a bit "casual" and not get the clutch bottomed out. Thick soled
boot-type shoes are not conducive to this effort - and sometimes the edge of
the sole will get caught on the carpeting on the side of the foot well. You
may not notice this until the transmission lets you know :-(. You need
relatively thin-soled shoes without any type of "flair" on the edge of the
soles. It also doesn't do any harm to get up under your dash with an oiler
filled with good old 30W motor oil and make certain that all the rotating
surfaces in your clutch pedal linkage are well oiled. Also, -1 ZF's (and I
assume -2's as well) have grease fittings on the slave crank rod that goes
across the ZF bell housing; eliminating friction at these point doesn't do
any harm either in getting full clutch disengagement.
Regards,
Jim O'Conner





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