[DeTomaso] Alignment specs

[John McKee]

Jack and all,
If camber in the rear is an issue due to subframe collapse and or lowering 
the car then would then extended upper A arms make sense for a non flared 
car?
http://www.precisionproformance.com/sc2020.htm
And if anybody has used these just how drastically does that effect tire 
clearance when you are trying to fit 17"- 335's under the rear?
Then again if a guy really wanted to dial in the rear camber and toe-in, a 
set of A arms with adjustable rod ends would probably be the way to go.
http://www.pim.net/Susp112606all.jpg
bling...bling.....cha.ching.
Any thoughts on what is to be gained from adjusting the rear suspension 
beyond what it is capable from a stock and potentially sagging setup?

John
4488

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <JDeRyke at aol.com>
To: <johnmaffeo1 at yahoo.com>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Alignment specs


> In a message dated 6/13/06 10:23:15 AM, johnmaffeo1 at yahoo.com writes:
>
> << My car is a '72 pre-L. I have 17x11 on the rear with 335x35x17 and 
> 16x8.5
> front with 245X45X16. I have Aldan adjustable shocks, 1" sway bars front 
> and
> rear with heim joints. I also have a camber lock kit. The car will mosly 
> be
> driven on the street but will see some track time too. >>
>
> Before you take the thing in, if you haven't already done this, I'd 
> suggest
> you change any rubber suspension bushings to polyurethane, and get the 
> ones for
> the front that are offset so when installed, they increase the caster to 
> 4.6-
> 5.2 degrees- around twice what you can dial in as-stock. Once this is 
> done,
> you'll need to realign the front wheels anyway. The extra caster greatly
> improves higher speed stabilty and reduces 'nervousness' in the front end, 
> with a
> small amount of increased steering heaviness at low speeds. With any poly
> bushings, big super-lo-profile tires & healthy swaybars, you can get away 
> with about
> 1/16" of front toe-in (or maybe even zero!) and the camber at maybe 1/2
> degree negative (inboard). I'd also be sure all 4 corners of the car are
> weight-balanced to minimize tire wear & further improve handling.
> In the rear, caster is not adjustable and camber is usually more than you
> need but is almost always un-adjustable due to subframe collapse, so a 
> small
> amount of toe-in, 1/16-1/8" is about all you can adjust. Then drive the 
> car hard
> on twisty roads & maybe a short high-speed blast to see if you like it 
> this
> way, and readjust as necessary. The settings above not only improve 
> handling,
> they should prolong your tire life, but all this stuff is personal & you 
> may not
> like it for some reason. Good luck- J DeRyke
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