[DeTomaso] A ZF Type Question

[Tomas Gunnarsson]

Late reply but here's my view. I did this on both sides of my trans last year. One of the bolts on each side mounts in a thinner section of the wall than the others. The most "down" IIRC. I stripped them both despite using a torque wrench. Signs of "ace" mechanics inside the trans in the past makes me think they could have been over torqued. I helicoiled them. This was made with an empty case but should be possible without complete disasembly if you're careful. You may chose to reset the diff adjustment anyway to factory specs during assembly with the new gaskets. Welding the hole shut will no doubt require a complete remachining of the case as both the outside of the case where the side plate mounts must be very flat (and parallel to it's counterpart) and the hole which the plate is pushed into must remain perfectly round and in its correct position.

Tomas

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Difani" <cdifani at pacbell.net>
To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: den 29 mars 2006 12:38
Subject: [DeTomaso] A ZF Type Question


> I was checking the torque settings on the side plate nuts, when I discovered 
> that one nut wouldn't take more than about 10 ft lbs of torque. It would 
> keep turning.... not like all the others...
> 
> Now the only work that's been done on this is that RBT went thru it, checked 
> it all out, replaced some synchros, and then polished the case. No one else 
> has messed with it.
> 
> This nut is on one of the studs that holds the side plate on. The plate that 
> the drive shaft connects thru (it's late, and I'm not good with proper names 
> at this time of the morning....). The "black" plate that's on the side of 
> the ZF (one on each side).
> 
> Now I haven't investigated further, but I have this suspicion that the 
> threads have some kind of problem. It just "feels" like that. All the other 
> nuts were nice and tight. The way they are supposed to be. Solid.
> 
> This one isn't.
> 
> So my question here is, any particular repair process preferred over any 
> other? Helicoil; drill and tap to a larger thread, and install a "stepped" 
> stud (12MM on the case side, and 10MM on the black plate side); TIG the hole 
> up and then drill and tap to original specs; or?
> 
> I have the ZF out of the car so access is not an issue. I would prefer not 
> to have to disassemble the entire transaxle to fix this. At this point I'm 
> leaning towards the helicoil solution....
> 
> Or I could slap some metal filled epoxy in there and just leave it 
> alone.....
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris
> 
> Chris Difani
> '73 L #5829 "LITNNG"
> Sacramento, CA
> Email: cdifani at pacbell.net 
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