[DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at SilverState???

Tue May 30 17:44:34 EDT 2006

Easy for you to say slacker while you are snoozing away over in Brunei soaking up the tax free expatriate dollars ;-]
  P.S. do you need to pull the pan to check the bearings?! BWAHAHAHA.

  MD

Kirby Schrader <kirby.schrader at gmail.com> wrote:

Fair enough comment. When I was in the US, I drove my car as a daily 
driver to work and back and went to the track with it a lot.
I put 24,000 miles on a 377 stroker and when I pulled the pan to 
change the bearings, they definitely needed to be changed.

As often as the Dawg changes his engine, he'll never have to 
worry.. :-)
Just adding to Dave's list for those who were interested.

On 30 May 2006, at 23:08, John Bentley ((jab)) wrote:

> Kirby,
>
> Lets see, 20,000 miles divided by 90 miles for each ORR = 222 ORR's.
> Figure 3 ORR's per year equals 74 years. So, EVERY 74 years I'll plan
> on changing my rod bearings!
>
> Actually, for most of us slackers that leave our Panteras on jack 
> stands
> for a large percentage of their lives, we'd be lucky to drive 20,000
> miles maybe every ten years! :)
>
> JB
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso- 
> bounces at realbig.com]
> On Behalf Of Kirby Schrader
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 6:02 AM
> To: Dave Doddek
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at
> SilverState???
>
>
> I would add rod bearings every 20,000 miles if you hammer the hell
> out of it with 'decent' compression.
>
> On 30 May 2006, at 12:43, Dave Doddek wrote:
>
>> Learn from this, When you race, some things must be changed often.
>> Oil - Every race,
>> Fan Belts - Every year,
>> Hoses - every Year,
>> Coolant (if you run it) -
>> Twice a year,
>> Trans oil - Every 5 raes,
>> Air filter - Every Race,
>> Rings - At least yearly,
>> Water pump and Thermostat - Every year,
>> Clutch/PP - E every year, etc.
>>
>> Remember, racing is expensive if it is to be reliable.
>>
>> Dave "I have raced, and more than just Silver State" D
>>
>> At 10:47 AM 5/29/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>>> Donny,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the feedback...allot will be answered next week after 
>>> the
>> engine comes apart....I do change the oil of both the engine and ZF
>> after
>> every ORR run...I have usually run 2-3 degrees retarded on timing
>> for WOT
>> runs. That combination has been a receipe for consistent success
>> but won't
>> help when the BELT breaks and the water pumps stops going round and
>> round!!! ;-]>
>>>
>>> The errant "belt" did give me some warning a couple months ago it
>> started "squeeking" when the belt/engine was cold.....I pulled the
>> engine
>> hatch 'twice' to look at the belt and adjust tension although
>> tension was
>> set perfectly....both times it looked okay. I haven't lost a belt
>> in 20
>> years. I had Drenske look at it and another wrench in another
>> shop who
>> set timing and rejetted carb just before SS to also check tension
>> and check
>> the belt.....it looked good....everyone said it looked good and
>> tension was
>> good and life was good. So the moral of the story is do NOT 
>> listen to
>> anyone when your belt starts talking to you. What it was really
>> squeeking was;
>>> "I NEED TO BE RETIRED....I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD I LOOK"
>>>
>>> No, not me Donny.....the belt!!!
>>>
>>> MD
>>> Donnylee63 at aol.com wrote:
>>> Doggy-
>>>
>>> I run 110 leaded in my race car.....This stuff does infact burn
>>> alot cleaner
>>> then pump varieties with very little soot on the plugs exhaust
>>> pipe exits. I
>>> am betting your running close to optimum on your jets, but just
>>> slightly on
>>> the lean side.
>>>
>>> The other thing you should file away is race gas requires a little
>>> bit more
>>> spark lead, and you will likely need to bump your total advance a 
>>> 3-5
>> degree's
>>> to get the same power running the higher octane.... The flame
>>> front on race
>>> fuel is quite a bit slower then pump gas. I run 40 degrees total
>>> in that
>> drag
>>> Poncho with 12:1 and 110 fuel. For this engine I have played with
>>> that a
>> bunch
>>> and it needs that kind of timing to make the best power with the
>>> fuel I am
>>> running.
>>>
>>> I have seen some of these wise guys with their street cars dump a
>>> bunch of
>>> race gas in their street rides only to net them slower ET's
>>> because they
>> made no
>>> other adjustments to run it. And advancing the timing up a bit is
>>> the key!
>>> That said if you do not need to run it I would not. Its only
>>> purpose is to
>>> ensure no detonation problems with a higher compression engine. With
>> aluminum
>>> heads at 10:1 I would run premium pump. If your a shade over that
>>> then the
>>> race fuel may make some sense with your venue. However, if your
>>> mixing it
>> with
>>> pump, I liken that to putting really good whiskey on top of bad
>> whiskey...and
>>> what you end up with is watered down whiskey.........
>>>
>>> If you optimize your engine with one fuel or the other, run it
>>> with that
>> fuel
>>> 100% is my reccomendation. Race gas makes no extra power....With
>>> the same
>>> timing as pump fuel it will make less power. And having your
>>> engine tuned
>> for
>>> Race Fuel and throwing in pump may lead to the likes of detonation
>>> which
>> should
>>> be avoided at all costs! I think you get the drift here.... Bottom
>>> line to
>>> answer your question, Yes, Race fuel burns extremely cleaner then
>>> pump fuel.
>>> Its corrosive stuff! If you have alot of blow by my experience
>>> tells me your
>>> Engine oil will take on the smell of the Race Fuel...And for that
>>> reason you
>>> should be very agressive with the oil changes! (Which I am sure
>>> you are)
>>>
>>>
>>> Hope that helps my K-9 friend............
>>>
>>> Donny
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