[Miata] timing belt/water pump
Johnson, Sean
sean_johnson at milacron.com
Wed Jul 2 07:38:55 CDT 2008
Mickey,
I just got done doing this, and posted comments to the list last Sunday.
I used two crescent wrenches and a c-clamp to hold the cams, but I still
had to go back and get the cams lined up again, as one of the wrenches
slipped when I was removing the cam sprocket bolt. It is spring loaded.
IMHO, you need to remove the thermostat neck, the cam sprockets, and the
plate behind the cam sprockets. This gives you much better access for
getting the pump back on. Order the better steel/plastic gasket for the
pump from Mazda; it's much easier to install than the cheap paper ones.
You'll need to order the o-ring for the neck. You'll also need a good
torque wrench and regular (blue) loctite for the cam sprocket bolts and
the big bolt on the crank. Oh yes; order new seals for the crankshaft
and camshafts. Getting the crank seal out may require buying a "sneaky
pete" tool, available at Autozone and similar places.
I'd definitely suggest spending $7 at Autozone to get a cheap set of
metric taps. Use the m8 tap to clean out the threads of the new pump,
so you don't accidentally cross-thead the outlet screws (ask me how I
know). In fact, when you re-install the pump, get both of the outlet
screws run in by hand before installing the pump screws.
Other suggestions? Buy 1/4 and 3/8 universals for your socket set, and
some longer extensions to complement the 3" ones you probably already
have. I find that you really don't need to remove the fans and
radiator, but you'll have to remove the belly pan to ease access for the
crank pulley screws, because...
You need that access to intall a couple of hand-made aluminum plates to
hold the crankshaft hub while you untorque and torque the crank screws.
Pics are in the garage section somewhere in the crank repair
instructions I think. Home Depot has aluminum plate in 1/8"x1 1/2x 36"
lengths.
Good luck!
Regards,
Sean Johnson
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