[Miata] Fw: Replacing rear window
Terry Beavan
tbeavan1 at earthlink.net
Wed Jul 2 21:28:11 CDT 2008
For what its worth, my mileage on my '97 went up a little bit (from
23-24 to 26mpg in the city, and from 28 to a wee bit more than 31mpg on
a trip from Jacksonville to Daytona and back) when I did the popular
(and cheap, other than the cost of a timing light, a box-end wrench that
would get to that nearly inaccessible bolt on the CAS, and some banged
up knuckles) NA trick of bumping up the ignition timing to get more
low-end torque, but I've found I can no longer run 87 octane without
pinging when accelerating more than very lightly, and even with 89 I
have to avoid pushing it too hard especially near redline or it'll ping.
Terry
mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com wrote:
> Its a compromise. Keeps me with my wifes blessing from a motorcycle.
> She wants me around for a while. But I think some after market things,
> I can squeak a few more mpg out of her. Heck it is a 1.8 L engine and
> the car weighs nothing. But you are right she loves 6k to 7K rpm.
>
> Fiat spider got 34 with a few mods plus improved performance. So mazda
> magic can happen too. Fiat was easier, no computer and sensors.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Alster <Larry at Miata.net>
> To: Ariagno,Mark BIV-US-J; miata at realbig.com <miata at realbig.com>
> Sent: Wed Jul 02 20:08:52 2008
> Subject: RE: [Miata] Fw: Replacing rear window
>
> Miatas rev. Lower the rpm the power goes away and the mileage might get
> a little better but then when you need to speed up you will use more
> throttle and some of your mileage improvement goes away. If you bought
> the Miata as a high MPG car you have the wrong car.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
> Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 SM2 FM I+ Turbo
> Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L JR Supercharger
> Whooosh 2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
>
> LowCountry Miata http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
> Masters Miata
> RAGS 074
>
>
>
> From: mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com
> [mailto:mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 8:48 PM
> To: Larry at Miata.net; miata at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [Miata] Fw: Replacing rear window
>
>
>
> Got you, overdrive would be a better word. At 60 mph I am at exactly
> 3000rpm, seems high. 2200rpm would be better, does cold intake and
> improved exhaust or turbo help to improve?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Alster <Larry at Miata.net>
> To: Ariagno,Mark BIV-US-J; miata at realbig.com <miata at realbig.com>
> Sent: Wed Jul 02 19:43:36 2008
> Subject: RE: [Miata] Fw: Replacing rear window
>
> Skip the 6 speed there is no extra economy to be had. Look at the
> ratios and you will understand. 1st gear is a stump puller and 6th is
> almost the same as 5th on a 5 speed.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
> Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 SM2 FM I+ Turbo
> Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L JR Supercharger
> Whooosh 2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
>
> LowCountry Miata http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
> Masters Miata
> RAGS 074
>
>
>
> From: miata-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:miata-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 8:31 PM
> To: miata at realbig.com
> Subject: [Miata] Fw: Replacing rear window
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ariagno,Mark BIV-US-J
> To: 'miataturbo at gmail.com' <miataturbo at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wed Jul 02 19:09:28 2008
> Subject: Re: [Miata] Replacing rear window
>
> Thanks, new to miatas. Quite a cult group. Two months ago bought the
> red 97 with 49k miles on it and a good car fax report. Wanted fun way
> to get better mpg. Top had been down for four years. Boy did it crack
> when raised. It has 17 inch flashy wheels. I am a pretty handy
> engineer. My eight year old wants it in eight years. Want to do some
> after market things with it. I wish I had a six speed for better
> economy. I am on BB or I would send a picture to you. Did get ticket
> for no lisence plate in front. There are no brackets and it would look
> awful. Now I have to do the timing belt but I would like to peek at it
> first to see condition. Possible?
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Sharp <miataturbo at gmail.com>
> To: Ariagno,Mark BIV-US-J
> Sent: Wed Jul 02 18:56:16 2008
> Subject: Re: [Miata] Replacing rear window
>
> Hi, Mark!
>
> I think the grinding wheel on the Dremel will disturb the plastic less
> than a drill would. You can still carefully move it away enough to tape
> the holes without removing it. I think I didn't bother to tape the
> holes on the last one I did. I like your idea of zip ties on those side
> rivets. I'll do that next time.
>
> Sam
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2008 at 5:48 PM, <mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi sam, unfortunately, while drillimg rivets, that's when I
> cracked it plus I wanted to seal both sides of the rivets holes. It was
> my first time doing this on a miata. Done mg and triumphs and two fiat
> spiders.
>
> Thanks
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Sharp <miataturbo at gmail.com>
> To: Ariagno,Mark BIV-US-J
> Cc: miata at realbig.com <miata at realbig.com>
> Sent: Wed Jul 02 18:37:29 2008
> Subject: Re: [Miata] Replacing rear window
>
> I've had luck grinding the heads off of the rivets at the back
> with a Dremel. Then push them out the back one at a time and you can
> separate the top from the rain rail without removing the rain rail from
> the car. Much less chance of cracking it this way.
>
> Sam
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2008 at 8:27 AM,
> <mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Alex, funny you ask. I just did mine on my 1997.
> Miata garage has a good article to follow although the beginning is a
> little confusing so I ignored that part. Just take out the rear carpet
> by removing the plastic fasteners. Then you will expose several bolts
> holding on some plates to some studs. They are 10 mm. You will see
> several rivets to drill out. Use a very sharp drill bit or in my case
> bits and variable speed drill. This is a real pain if they start to
> spin on you. Hold with needle nose vice grip. Once out you can
> separate the top from the rain rail. The rain rail like every one says
> is real fragile. I broke mine in a couple of spots. If you do the
> same, just go to the hardware store and pick up drain plumbing tape and
> tape her up real good. It is thick gooey tape with a paper backing.
> Sticks to anything. Just tape the whole thing up nice and pretty. You
> wont be putting rivets back in so tape over the holes. Rivets are just
> for factory convenience.
>
> Now there are two more rivets or I would call them brads
> that hold the rear curtain containing window to the top. Drill them out
> too. They are a pain along with two rivets holding the top on each side
> of the car near the bottom of seat belt tower. They are a pain too.
> Two on each side. Now the zipper holding window in has these little
> metal stops at the end of the zipper. Bend the prongs out and use
> needle nose to remove. Mark both sides of zipper with red nail polish.
> You want to put the stop back in the same place. Now run the zipper off
> the track. I took the window to a very nice mom and pop upholstery
> shop. They put a new window on the inside of the curtain and double
> stitched it on. They also stitched Velcro on that was coming loose.
> Real pretty job for $70,00. Put it back together in reverse, don't
> scratch your new window. Now those two rivets that hold the top and
> curtain together can be replaced by using slammers which are two part
> rivets that are pushed together. They really hold very well. I ordered
> from Mcmaster Car. The two rivets on both sides are real hard to
> replace, so I used small electrical zip ties to secure top in those
> locations. Make sure your rain rail is taped up real well and the drain
> tube on each corner should be cleaned out while you are there.
>
> By the way if you screw up the zipper stop like I did,
> ask the upholstery shop for one when you pick up your rear curtain.
> After I did mine, I noticed just a little flapping noise between the top
> and the curtain by the sides of the window. There is suppose to be a
> little rubber pad there, mine is a little worn. I wanted to add another
> piece of Velcro but have found no glue to attach to top and curtain.
> Self adhesives one wont stick either. Took me four hours to take apart
> and three to put back together and roughly a six pack or so of beer,
> this might be a conservative estimate though. If you have an original
> top it has like a little embossed or raised area with writing on the
> corner of window in Japanese. That is the real deal..I would be
> surprised a 1992 would still have original. If it was after market you
> could get a new curtain with window ready to go if the zippers would
> match. Miata has proprietary zipper so if yours is Miata, no one makes
> one to match But if top is OK and curtain is OK, I would go with the
> upholstery route. There also is Velcro that hold top to cross bar near
> back window, you can tighten the top up some by moving Velcro towards
> the window. Its wrapped right around cross bar. Hope this helps some.
>
> Mark R. Ariagno
>
> Manager Plant Engineering
>
> mark.ariagno at boehringer-ingelheim.com
>
> ABoehringer Ingelheim Vetmedica, Inc
>
> 1411Oak Street, P.O. Box 338
>
> Elwood, KS 66024
>
> Telephone (913)380-3105
>
> Telefax (913)380-3117
>
> Cell: (816)-390-0296
>
>
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